What to do and see in Chiapa de Corzo, Chiapas: The Best Things to do

Reviewed By johnpB3780YQ - Guadalajara, Mexico

While visitingTuxtla Gutiérrez in Chiapas, I was told I absolutely had to experience a boat trip through the nearby Cañon del Sumidero, whose vertical walls tower up to 1000 meters above the rather narrow Grijalva River. Trips up the river are organized from several docks alongside the little town of Chiapa de Corso, which, I was surprised to learn, had for a brief time been the state capital. The word chiapa, by the way, appears to be a short form of the word tepechiapan, which means “water below the hill,” a fitting description of the Grijalva river flowing through kilometer-high walls of rock. “It’s better to take that boat ride in the morning, rather than later in the day,” a local taxi driver told us. “The boat men won’t leave until they have enough customers to fill every single seat, so people who go to Chiapa de Corso late in the afternoon may find themselves sitting around forever waiting for their tour to start.” As for us, we only had to wait half an hour. Then life jackets were assigned to each of us. Although it looked like it was going to rain, we learned that umbrellas were forbidden. Since these boats are uncovered—to allow for a good upward view of the canyon walls—I would suggest you bring along a waterproof poncho if rain seems likely. A warm jacket is another good idea. Even on a sunny day, the boats travel at high speeds along much of the river, generating a strong breeze with plenty of spray. Here you may be wondering: is it all worthwhile? The answer, in my opinion, is a resounding sí que sí: absolutely yes! There is much more to this canyon than high walls. The farther you go upriver, the more obvious it becomes that there is something wonderful, something magical about it. One moment you are overwhelmed by majesty and grandeur and the next you’re seduced by a spray of wildflowers and then your heart is touched by the affection and clowning antics of child-like spider monkeys who are obviously fast friends with the boatmen who ferry us tourists up and down the river. You are mesmerized by rocky crags high, high above you, but when you glance back down at the river you see an elegant white egret posing on a slender wand protruding from the water or suddenly discover a big brown pelican floating right next to you. Another glance and you spot a huge, lazy crocodile sprawled over a rocky outcrop, taking the sun. And if you brought along those binoculars, you may even get to see a cinnamon hummingbird pollinating the wildflowers. Some 120 boats carry visitors along the 30-kilometer stretch between the docks at Chiapa de Corzo and the Chicoasén Hydroelectric Dam upriver. These boats are sturdy, the guides are very well trained, and everyone on board is obliged to wear a life jacket. In addition, there are ambulance boats anchored along the riverside, on call all day long. As a result of these high standards, around 300,000 people take the boat ride up the Grijalvo River every year, making the Cañon del Sumidero the second most popular site in Chiapas, after Palenque. Our voyage up the river ended much too soon at the foot of the dam, which, all by itself, generates over thirty percent of all the hydroelectric power produced in Mexico. Here we found two “floating Oxxos” awaiting us with junk food. The magic spell was broken. Back to business. But I returned home slightly changed. I may not be able to voice it, but I did experience something unique in this tall river canyon and before we debarked all of us applauded our guide as we would the conductor of a symphony orchestra, for he had been instrumental in making our lives just a little bit richer. Oh, yes, the Sumidero Canyon is well worth it.