A coastal resort complete with hot springs, Atami has been a favorite vacation spot for Tokyoites dating back to Tokugawa Ieyasu. Though the city's main draws are its beach boardwalk and spas, visitors can take in some history staying in early 20th-century private villas converted to inns and catching the afternoon Geisha dance performance at Geigi Kenban.
Restaurants in Atami
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In general, Atami gets a lot of bad press for nothing to see (apart from the Sex Museum). Kiunkaku, however, is definitely worth checking out. The original two buildings date from the Taisho Period when Japanese were mixing Western elements into their traditional design. The result is fascinating architectural features, including large fireplaces with stone Buddhist carvings for the mantels, etc. The original buildings were later purchased along with a large plot of land then "wings" added to form a giant square enclosure surrounding a beautiful Japanese garden. The entire complex was run as a Japanese Inn for the wealthy and almost every famous author in modern Japan has stayed there - which is why they couldn't tear it down when the most recent owners wanted to get out of the hotel business. A group of concerned citizens banded together and fought the wrecking ball, forcing the city to buy the entire facility. Although they left it to crumble, someone at City Hall finally realized that the place could be a tourist draw and Kiunkaku was renovated. The city built a glass "salon" that extends into the Japanese garden, providing an amazing backdrop for concerts, many of which are free. There is also an art gallery with rotating exhibitions of local artists, as well as a "workshop" space for handicraft hounds. (The last session I attended was for pressing dried flowers.) I live in the area and definitely this is one of the more interesting places to spend some hours in Atami!
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