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The former royal capital and its palace on a steep hill offer stunning views overlooking rice terraces.
The Twelve Sacred Hills of the Imerina were designated over two centuries ago by King Nampoina, who was roughly the Malagasy equivalent of George Washington. They were labeled as such because of their historical, political, and spiritual significance to the Merina kingdom and soon-to-be unified nation of Madagascar. This designation was echoed by UNSECO in the early 21st Century when the organization bestowed World Heritage status to Ambohimanga, by far the most famous of the dozen hallowed mounds. The hill rises steeply approximately 450 feet from the surrounding terrain and has been settled in one fashion or another for over four centuries. The current structures exhibit a mélange of construction styles and have been built, re-built, and renovated multiple times over the years. I visited during my first full day in Tana after spending almost two weeks in the country. Although the site is only found 23km north of the city it took over an hour to get here due to the usual labyrinthine “roads” in the area. As was routine in the country, a local guide is mandatory here and worth every ariary. Although the entire history of the site is layered and complex (just take a peek at the Wikipedia article), it basically consists of the Rova (royal enclosure) and the surrounding grounds. We started at the former, with the instructions that no photos were allowed inside. The Rova consists of a number of wood and stone buildings. The most famous of these is King Nampoina’s residence, the only remaining original construction here from that time period. “Palace” is a bit of a stretch but the building contains a number of his personal items including weapons, drums, and a raised bed. There are several other royal pavilions found nearby, in addition to royal tombs containing stone crypts with remains; stone water pools and zebu pens complete the interior picture. Outside the Rova are expansive gardens with a stone esplanade that provides sweeping views across the entire city and surrounding countryside. Multiple gardens with the requisite botanical diversity abound with the occasional bird to break the silence. I spent over two hours on site. In summary, there were multiple reasons why this attraction was one of the top five experiences during my time in the country. First, it is the one location that embodies the founding, colonization, and nationalization of the country. Second, the layers of symbolism were fascinating. My guide explained that the homes of the living are made of wood and vegetation (living materials) and those of the dead are in stone (non-living, inert materials); this was just one example of dozens found throughout the compound. Third, the views over the countryside are sublime. Last and most important, the area isn’t just a relic of the past; it is still used as a present day center for religion and pilgrimage and was refreshingly free from digital displays and souvenir books. Ambohimanga isn’t for everyone. It takes a bit of time and effort to get here and to peel back the layers of history. The results, however, are worth it. Thumbs up.
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